In the small Andean village of Ollantaytambo a crime has been committed. A crime so scandalous, so abhorrent, every woman in town has gathered in the square to have her say. Huddled in two opposing camps, with much scowling and tut-tutting, it seems one woman has stolen, straight off the head of another, a much-coveted bowler hat. The mauve hat in question, stitched with the finest threads and gleaming with jewels, now sits rather smugly on the head of a grinning older woman. And she's not giving it back.